Surf Wax Coloring Inside the Lines

I’m new to the world of color wax. I’ve seen it on a few boards from time to time, but it always seemed like kind of an 80’s retro thing (there’s nothing wrong with that- best decade ever, kids!). I had a board that was in need of a wax strip down and new coat, so I thought this board would be a good board to try this wax out on, since it screamed coloring book:

Dirty Board!

I used my standard plastic scraper to get the wax off, but I wasn’t worried about the remaining wax residue remaining since I was just going to turn around and re-wax.

I never use the combs to scrape wax- it’s easier with the handle
My wax ball to be reused!

I ended up with a nice wax ball that I’m going to do one of my previous projects with. Next, I followed the basic routine for putting a nice wax job on the board first, using basecoat wax, and tropical wax, both Sticky Bumps brand. I did skip the cold water layer on this as a test to see how it will do the rest of this Summer. Here’s the standard wax job:

Wax job completed

Next, I decided that I was going to color the top hibiscus and leaf at the top. I rarely make it up to the front on this 7’6″ funshape, and if I do, it’s by accident, but it’s always good to wax up to the nose, just in case. Since the front doesn’t see as much action, it’s a good spot to pick to prolong the life of the color, and minimize any staining that may result from the pigment. I usually wear a black rashguard and wash my rashguards, boardshorts, and bathing suits in a separate load of laundry anyway, so that helps to keep any wax problems contained.
First, I did try some colored wax made from beeswax, but it horribly smeared on over the base wax job, so the coloration looked uneven. I took off that wax, rewaxed that section to create another base. After that mistake, I sought out some Sticky Bumps Day Glo Colored Wax. I figured using the same formulas together would help build up the color better and create a more even coat. I was right this time.

Day Glo Color Wax in neon pink and green

The colored wax comes in Warm/Tropical, as well as other temperatures, so I used Warm/Tropical, which was also my topcoat on my base wax job. The colored wax seemed just a tiny bit softer than the regular wax. Hmmm…that deserves an experiment, but I digress.
I did VERY small, controlled circles with a corner of the wax bar to build up a layer of color, breaking the wax bar to create as many corners and turning over the bar several times to get a finer point to work with. I had to be patient and make several passes of color to get enough effect. The wax as a bar has a very intimidating color, but the intensity of the color is muted on the board so the bright pigment seemed to be the best bet for this wax job.

The hibiscus and leaf colored in

I so much fun with this, I even did another leaf on the bottom of the board! The wax job is subtle, but looks nice in person- a bit washed out in the pictures:

Coloring complete

Next, I needed to wax my longboard, so I tried another method to color the board by making my own stencil. I printed out a simple star shape on printer paper and used a straight edge, Exacto knife, and my cutting board to create a stencil to use. This is a good option if you don’t want to freehand it, and looks good on a clear board.

My stencil cut out

Next, I put a base of wax on my board first, of course. I believe this may also prevent any potential staining of the glass, if that does happen, and put it up towards the nose to encourage me to practice on my cross stepping.

Stencil on the board

I carefully made little circles again on the board, holding the stencil paper down so it wouldn’t crunch up on me and mess up my design. Going slow is a best bet.

A stencil makes it ok to be a bit sloppy.

Here’s the finished product that I used the stencil twice on:

Hard to starboard!

Anyways, now I’ve got to cut out crescent moons, and clover shapes so I’ll have me a Lucky Charms board. And nobody can take me Lucky Charms board.

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