DIY Longboard Noseriding Stripe

Just in time for the leprechaun wave season, I got a great 9’0″ plank for catching little rollers and practicing my ever futile attempts at noseriding, or at least walking up close to the general vicinity.
The board I got is a great shape, a hint of pigginess, but it’s as plain as the barnyard hog.

Fat bottomed surfboards make the world go round….
 
I added a tiny blue turtle sticker as a marker to at least distinguish it somewhat, but it’s not enough.
To give it a bit of personality- but also make a useful mark- I decided to make a “competition” or “noseriding” stripe. These can be found on many hand shaped and manufactured surfboards today. Officially, the stripe demarcating the nose area of a surfboard starts at the last 25% of the surfboards’ length. This standard is credited to Tom Morey in 1965, and is still in use today.
To make my “comp” stripe, I gathered a pencil, a tape measure, DUCT TAPE (is there anything it CAN’T do?), and scissors. Goody for me, they have Pink Glitter Duct Tape now. Don’t judge- it’s my freakin’ sweet board.
Glitter! Supposedly, the glitter is NOT supposed to flake off. Good.
 
I also used a narrower version of duct tape in green to use as an accent.
Don’t like Pink? Yeah, they actually make Duck Dynasty duct tape:
It’s the end of the world as we know it.
 
For my 9′ Starr, this means the stripe will begin at 27 inches back from the nose. I measured this from the center stringer tip of the nose back to 27 inches to make my marks.
Unfortunately, I would be taping over the Starr logo, and removing the happy little turtle. Boo.
I used a straight edge to draw a straight line across the nose, checking for symmetrical distances from the nose on either side of the stringer.
I was ready to place my first tape- the green accent line- even with the top of the tape along the pencil line. I used a wax comb (the smooth edge) to get rid of any bubbles. I cut the tape at the edge of the rails.
Its straight, I swear! The logo’s angled up!
Next, I abutted the fabulous glitter stripe right under the green stripe, then the other accent green under that. I found I needed 2 layers of the glitter tape to cover the logo since its slightly transparent. I will remedy the lack of a logo in a sec.
I felt bad for covering up the Starr logo, so I put the Core Surf shop logo on, choosing a green color from a few I had picked up. Wish he had glitter….
Ok, I bet the shop owner will be THRILLED to have this kook representin’.
 
Here it is after a wax job- it’s hard to tell it not painted until you see the rails where it ends. If you’re really trying to fool people, wrap it all the way around.
 
So there you have it, a simple, cheap way to mark off your longboard’s nose and add a touch of style. Even if the board gets a suntan, the stripe mark is still generally useful to a future owner if I sell it. I have a feeling this one’s going to be around a while, though.
I do need to watch myself though with my duct tape obsession in surfing projects, or you can call me Boomhauer Fanning.
Yep, I’d go with the Speedos too.
 
 
 

Removing Sharpie Art from a Surfboard

As you can probably guess, I love painting on things, especially on boards. But, like others, tastes change, and it’s time to move on from the Sharpie’d anarchy symbol on your board that clashes with the pimped out, child safe minivan ride you’re rocking these days.
To show a couple of ways of cleaning art or anything off a board that is permanent, I used my beloved 8’6″ Natural Art epoxy board. I had a little “tattoo” of a seahorse I had drawn a while back using a Sharpie black fine line pen, and gold paint pen over it. It looks kind of goofy, and I’d like a do-over on it.

A little seahorse, but off center- D’OH!


To clean my board, I got some non-acetone nail polish remover and a “magic” eraser brick. For the non-acetone nail polish remover, you will have to look at the label closely to make sure it says this. Non-acetone nail polish remover is used for women (or men- I don’t judge) who have artificial nails. Some types of these nails are fiberglass with a gel coat- sound familiar?- and using regular acetone will weaken the gel coat surface.

Cleaning tools.

I put a little of the non-acetone remover on a papertowel (or a microfiber cloth if you want to be extra careful), and simply wiped away the image. If you have sealant over the work, you may need to use extra to “peel” those layers off. If you have a really stubborn Sharpie paint job, get out another Sharpie and paint over the existing work. The new paint over it will reactivate the old paint and make cleaning it off much easier. Hard to believe, but it does work!

Removing the image
Removed! (Still needs a bit more to get some of the leftovers)

Now, the next thing I can use to clean stuff off of a board is a magic eraser. I love this invention. All you do is get the eraser sponge wet, and it will remove just about anything without chemicals. I have actually used them to clean a nasty, outdoor kept, little fiberglass boat we bought that had marks all over it. When I finished (it did take a while), the boat looked like new, and I actually sold it for about 30% more than when it was bought. Totally worth it.
I used a magic eraser on some black marks I had on the rail of my board that just wouldn’t wash off:

After wetting the eraser, it took about a minute of scrubbing to get these marks off, but it removed them cleanly:

Now, after all that, you may want to repaint your board. If you are looking for a way to do that, but that will hold up in the surf, look here. In that project, I did use regular acetone to initially clean the board, but that was to make sure I throughly dissolved any existing wax. Non-acetone nail polish remover would work OK as well to remove wax residue, and really is safer overall for the glass.
So if you repaint your board, have fun and get creative- just don’t paint stick figures of each member of your family on it. Save that for the minivan.

Surf Wax Coloring Inside the Lines

I’m new to the world of color wax. I’ve seen it on a few boards from time to time, but it always seemed like kind of an 80’s retro thing (there’s nothing wrong with that- best decade ever, kids!). I had a board that was in need of a wax strip down and new coat, so I thought this board would be a good board to try this wax out on, since it screamed coloring book:

Dirty Board!

I used my standard plastic scraper to get the wax off, but I wasn’t worried about the remaining wax residue remaining since I was just going to turn around and re-wax.

I never use the combs to scrape wax- it’s easier with the handle
My wax ball to be reused!

I ended up with a nice wax ball that I’m going to do one of my previous projects with. Next, I followed the basic routine for putting a nice wax job on the board first, using basecoat wax, and tropical wax, both Sticky Bumps brand. I did skip the cold water layer on this as a test to see how it will do the rest of this Summer. Here’s the standard wax job:

Wax job completed

Next, I decided that I was going to color the top hibiscus and leaf at the top. I rarely make it up to the front on this 7’6″ funshape, and if I do, it’s by accident, but it’s always good to wax up to the nose, just in case. Since the front doesn’t see as much action, it’s a good spot to pick to prolong the life of the color, and minimize any staining that may result from the pigment. I usually wear a black rashguard and wash my rashguards, boardshorts, and bathing suits in a separate load of laundry anyway, so that helps to keep any wax problems contained.
First, I did try some colored wax made from beeswax, but it horribly smeared on over the base wax job, so the coloration looked uneven. I took off that wax, rewaxed that section to create another base. After that mistake, I sought out some Sticky Bumps Day Glo Colored Wax. I figured using the same formulas together would help build up the color better and create a more even coat. I was right this time.

Day Glo Color Wax in neon pink and green

The colored wax comes in Warm/Tropical, as well as other temperatures, so I used Warm/Tropical, which was also my topcoat on my base wax job. The colored wax seemed just a tiny bit softer than the regular wax. Hmmm…that deserves an experiment, but I digress.
I did VERY small, controlled circles with a corner of the wax bar to build up a layer of color, breaking the wax bar to create as many corners and turning over the bar several times to get a finer point to work with. I had to be patient and make several passes of color to get enough effect. The wax as a bar has a very intimidating color, but the intensity of the color is muted on the board so the bright pigment seemed to be the best bet for this wax job.

The hibiscus and leaf colored in

I so much fun with this, I even did another leaf on the bottom of the board! The wax job is subtle, but looks nice in person- a bit washed out in the pictures:

Coloring complete

Next, I needed to wax my longboard, so I tried another method to color the board by making my own stencil. I printed out a simple star shape on printer paper and used a straight edge, Exacto knife, and my cutting board to create a stencil to use. This is a good option if you don’t want to freehand it, and looks good on a clear board.

My stencil cut out

Next, I put a base of wax on my board first, of course. I believe this may also prevent any potential staining of the glass, if that does happen, and put it up towards the nose to encourage me to practice on my cross stepping.

Stencil on the board

I carefully made little circles again on the board, holding the stencil paper down so it wouldn’t crunch up on me and mess up my design. Going slow is a best bet.

A stencil makes it ok to be a bit sloppy.

Here’s the finished product that I used the stencil twice on:

Hard to starboard!

Anyways, now I’ve got to cut out crescent moons, and clover shapes so I’ll have me a Lucky Charms board. And nobody can take me Lucky Charms board.