Record Setting Wave

The World Surf League has officially announced that Rodrigo Koxa, a 38 year old Brazilian surfer, has set the new World Record for the largest wave ever ridden at 80 feet in Nazaré, Portugal.

“I try to surf big waves all my life, and I had a huge experience in 2014 where I almost died at Nazaré,” Koxa said. “Four months later, I had bad dreams, I didn’t travel, I got scared, and my wife helped me psychologically. Now, I’m just so happy, and this is the best day of my life. Thank you to WSL, it’s a dream come true.” Rodrigo Koxa, from surfertoday.com

Not surprisingly, this surfer had assistance to get into the monstrous wave with a jet ski because of the screamin’ speed of the wave. Doesn’t make it any easier to have a jet ski , by any means. You still gotta surf the wave 80 feet down. Eight stories. A Miami condo.

To live through a drop like this, no doubt Big Wave surfers have to go though a lot of unseen, unsexy failure and recovery, over and over, to make it to this point.

Don’t tell this guy he got “lucky to make it.”

Blue Crush…the Movie

I will admit, every Summer I’ll watch the surfer chick movie Blue Crush, starring Kate Bosworth, Michelle Rodriguez, and Sanoe Lake. It’s great to watch especially after a fun surf in the morning. The Summer thunderstorms move into this area in the late afternoon/evening, so it’s nice to just kick back and watch a movie then.

In this movie, the best actress award goes to Keala Kennelly, who plays herself. She’s an incredibly talented big wave surfer, and an inspiration for so many- including myself. I’ll never ride the terrifying waves that she does, but she proves what is possible. She’s had to endure her share of the Good Ole Boys’ club growing up (I can relate), but her unwavering commitment to the sport in the face of all these obstacles keeps her a REAL hero in women’s surfing, no Hollywood required.

Hollywood has yet to come up with a more thrilling scene as this one of Keala in Tahiti:
Keala at Teahupo’o
In my favorite scene from Blue Crush, she warns the main character- played by Kate Bosworth- not to hold back nor hesitate when going for a wave, or she will “eat shit.”


Well, that’s an interesting life philosophy. And I 

didn’t have to read any Deepak Chopra or The Secret to get there. Schweet. If you go into something halfway committed, you’ll end up far worse off in the end. However, if you don’t try, there will never be any success. Applies to many things, not just catching the next wave. Deep.
All I know is Blue Crush made women’s surfing more than “Gidget Enters a Surfing Competition.” Blue Crush showed that women were also committed and dedicated to the sport of surfing just as much as the men were. I think the real Gidget (Kathy Kohner-Zuckerman) would be okay with this changing acceptance of women as more than a novelty within surfing.
After all, the real Gidget probably wants to be known as one of the Most Influential People in Surfing (#7, according to Surfer)- not for supposedly chasing after the local Malibu surfer boys.
The real Gidget….

The marketable Gidget (played by Sally Field)….